| |
In
a gorge between towering rocky ranges, where the total
width of the passage is not an inch more than 30 metres,
the battered marble signpost notifies of the many
and varied nations and armies of warriors that, over
the centuries, have passed this way, using the Pass
as a gateway to the subcontinent and marking their
names forever in the war-specked and blood-spattered
history of the territory.
“Khyber basically means a little fortress in
Hebrew,” our guide informs, “and rightly
so, as the Pass was used as a fortress gate to counter
the various invaders and armies from Europe and Northern
Territories which tried to access and attack the subcontinent
time and again.”
“The Khyber Agency, which starts from Jamrod,
lying towards the west of Peshawar, mainly comprises
of Shinwaris, Shalmanis, Mullah Gauris and Afridis,”
he adds and the name of Shahid Afridi pops up automatically
in my mind! While I am busy taking in the hard, rocky
mountains surrounding the warped and twisted road,
the parallel running railway track to Landi Kotal
and the festive looking locals, our jeep takes a turn
and comes to a halt.
We have reached the Michni Post which is the last
Pakistani post on the Pak-Afghan border. Just ahead
of the post we can see the Torkham Gate from where
the international highway
The Michni Post’s history dates back centuries
ago. The post was first established as a front post
to ward off any invaders as well as to ensure the
safety of many trading caravans between the subcontinent,
Central Asia and Europe.
All the voyagers who have trod this way have left
a mark in one way or the other. There are ruins evident
of ancient Buddhist civilization; an ancient jail
and a slanting steep torture cell constructed on the
orders of Tamerlane (and marked by a huge ‘T’
now) make you shiver uncontrollably as you are reminded
of the days when the ruthless ruler ordered the prisoners
to be rolled down all along this steep slant that
had been specially lined with daggers, knives, broken
glass pieces and steel thorns…
Highly enthralled by the valiant historical record
of the Michni Post, we are now whisked away to the
extremely picturesque and historically rich Officers’
Mess of the Khyber Rifles situated in the midst of
Landi Kotal cantonment.
The walls along the Mess’ long corridors and
its museum bespeak of the many famous and honourable
personalities that have visited the place, ranging
from members of the British Royal Family (the suite
where Princess Di stayed the night adds to the tourists’
attractions), to our very own Quaid-e-Azam and sister
Fatima Jinnah, to Jacqueline and President Kennedy,
to Yasir Arafat, to Shah Iran, to Hilary Clinton,
to a long list of Hollywood artistes, etc. etc. The
Mess surely has a valid reason to be the proud host
of so many celebrities from all across the globe.
AI turn to take a final look at the tall mountains,
the narrow Pass and the mysterious looking curves
and passages leading deep into the unknown domains,
and sigh.
Today I, too, have added to the uncountable footsteps
that have trodden the historical Khyber Pass and surrounding
territories over the years gone by.
Another cherished thought to add to my many-splendoured
memories, surely!
|
|
